Partial Coverage is Dollhouse Bettie's unique weblog full of intriguing content that covers all things feminine and glamorous from corsets and pinups to the burlesque scene, the boudoir and beyond.


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Not only did I find sexy, stylish and supportive brassieres in my size (a major miracle, as those with super-sized "girls" know) but I also received superb customer service!
Anna. SF.

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While Burning Man is no longer held in San Francisco, we still have our fair share of "Burners." Each year the city seems to empty out over Labor Day weekend as thousands of artists and merry pranksters make their way to Nevada to build a temporary community based on artistic expression and the creative experience.

All of you heading to La Playa know costumes are in order, but what do you wear to a desert in the summertime? Pasties of course! The beautiful, handmade pasties are a bold way to keep your cool while looking hot out in the sand. Pair them with a cheeky set of rumba panties and you're ready to go.

Sweetheart Pink Pasties

Check out our listings online or head into our Haight Street location for more colorful choices.

Marie Antoinette Champange and Black Rumba Panties

The marabou shrug is another  fabulous accesory. Light, and easy to pack, this fluffy confection makes a great cover up for the wild nights of the event. 

Black Marabou Shrug

Crown your wardrobe with the feather headdress. The showgirl style can be worn with or without the removable gold mask, perfect for psychedelic masquerades.

Feather Showgirl Headress

While we could use a little sunshine in San Francisco this summer, you want to make sure you're well protected out in Black Rock City. We have some great parasols and packable sunhats in the store that will keep you shady in style.

Glamorize your gear with a pair of slinky fringe gloves. Black stretch satin gloves are extra long with flashy fringe that shimmies as you shake.  Ooh la la!

Sassy Fringe Gloves

We also have some great mini crinolines in our shop. Available in a variety of colors these poofy delights add flounce and frills to your costume and are perfect for the playa. Come on in to check out the selection. Burn on!

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The longline is a classic bra style which first gained popularity in the late 30s. As changes took place in fashion, bras evolved from the gossamer nothings worn by the flappers to more supportive and structurally complex designs. In contrast to the straight garcon lines of the 20s, the typical 30s silhouette was much more tailored and fit to the curves of a woman's body. The new styles in outerwear dictated corresponding changes in foundations and women began to expect more support and shaping from their bras. Longline bras not only offered improved lift to the bust, they also smoothed the waist and fit all the way to the top of a girdle for a complete and sleek fit. Early longline styles often were sewn with metal hooks or loops which could be attached to matching girdles creating a flexible, full foundation garment.

 Maiden Form Intimo Longline Bra 1938

A 1938 ad for Maiden Form's Intimo Longline bra.

40s Vintage Satin Longline Bra

A stunning vintage 40s satin longline from our collection. The loop along the bottom hem allows the piece to be attached to a girdle.

As technologies advanced and materials like nylon and elastic became available for lingerie construction, the shaping power of the longline bra improved. The wasp waisted fashions of the time were designed to fit a woman slimmed by her foundation garments and the glamour gowns and definitive party dress of the 50s were almost always accompanied by a longline bra. The style was typically fashioned with materials similar to those used for girdles with spiral steel boning, power mesh and no stretch panels strategically sewn in to create an elegant bust line while smoothing and contouring the tummy.

1950 Advertisement for Formfit's Life Longline Bra

For a "Sweetheart of a Figure," wear Formfit's "Life" Longline Bra, 1950.

1953 Formfit Advertisement for the Life Longline Bra

Formfit's 1953 longline style.

The longline continued to be a popular bra into the 60s. As women took to the work force they began to wear practical styles for all day comfort and shaping especially important under the fitted knits and wiggle skirts of the time. The contouring bras gave the wearer the perky sex kitten bosom and a smooth, body conscious line from the bust to the hip particularly when worn with the elastic waist band tucked into a girdle.

1965 Stretch Strap Lonline by Silhouette

Silhouette's 1965 Stretch Strap bras. For the mod girl on the go!

Modern gals tend to over look the longline styles. These days women seem to wear them only under formal dresses and bridal gowns, when specific undergarments are deemed necessary. However, no matter how fancy the function or dressy the attire, the proper undergarments are always an important part of an outfit. If you want to emanate the 50s hourglass silhouette or the shapely sex appeal of the 60s it's crucial to start from the inside out with a nice longline bra and a shaping girdle.

60s Vintage Longline by Hollywood Vassarette

A typical 60s look complete with Hollywood Vassarette longline bra and girdle from our archives

In addition to serving a foundational purpose, longline bras also give an edgy look as outerwear. Pairing a sexy style with a jean jacket or bolero makes an adventurous fashion statement. Or wear a vintage longline bra under a sheer shirt for a flirty look, giving slightly more coverage than a basic bra without the bulk of a full coverage camisole.

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While Christian Dior is often credited as the pioneer of the wasp waisted silhouette made famous by his stunning New Look designs of 1947, it turns out he was not the very first. In fact, another French designer by the name of Marcel Rochas introduced his own hourglass-centric fashions several years prior. Along with his visionary outerwear creations, Rochas also introduced a revolutionary new waist cincher to accompany his fitted styles. The guepiere, or waspie as it became known in English, has since become a hallmark of vintage lingerie. 

Marcel Rochas

Rochas at work. 

Rochas' career in fashion began in 1924 when, inspired by his elegant new wife and muse Helene, he abandoned his post as a lawyer to open up a couture house in Paris. Rochas' innovative designs demonstrate both his love for the female form and his creative sensibilities. In the 30s he showed several original styles including broad shouldered blouses and a stylish trouser suit for women at a time when the fairer sex only wore pants for the most informal or recreational occasions. 

Rochas Designs from 1934 

Marcel Rochas designs from 1934. Note the modern styling and sophisticated shapes. 

His collections were well received in Paris and abroad and by the 40s Rochas had built up a star studded clientele including Marlene Dietrich and Carole Lombard. His trademark looks structured around a woman's curves, like the belted party dress and mermaid gown, were forerunner's to the designs of the late 40s and 50s.

A Rochas Mermaid Gown Photographed by Irving Penn

A Rochas mermaid gown photographed by famed fashion photographer Irving Penn. 

In '42 Rochas released his guepiere. This marvelous new style of lingerie combined the cinching capacity of a corset with the elasticity of a girdle and was finished with garters. The clever design proved to be flattering, functional and fashionable, true to Rochas' motto, "Youth, Simplicity and Personality."  Several years after its release various other companies were manufacturing similar items, including Kleinert's rubber waspie and the infamous Warner's Merry Widow.

The Rochas Guepierre

The famous Rochas guepiere. Ooh la la! 

Femme 

Rochas designed a custom Chantilly lace waspie corset for Mae West. It is said her ample curves inspired the shape of his Femme perfume bottle.

 Rochas with Model in 1951

Rochas in his Paris workshop with a model. 

Rochas with Models Backstage

Rochas with backstage at a fashion show. Look, the models are eating...gasp! How else do you sustain a curvaceous figure?

Upon his death in '55 Rochas' widow Helene took the helm of the fashion house, building a perfume empire. Today the brand produces both haute couture and high end fragrances keeping the original founder's spirit of innovation and femininity alive in their creations.    

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