While Christian Dior is often credited as the pioneer of the wasp waisted silhouette made famous by his stunning New Look designs of 1947, it turns out he was not the very first. In fact, another French designer by the name of Marcel Rochas introduced his own hourglass-centric fashions several years prior. Along with his visionary outerwear creations, Rochas also introduced a revolutionary new waist cincher to accompany his fitted styles. The guepiere, or waspie as it became known in English, has since become a hallmark of vintage lingerie.

Rochas at work.
Rochas' career in fashion began in 1924 when, inspired by his elegant new wife and muse Helene, he abandoned his post as a lawyer to open up a couture house in Paris. Rochas' innovative designs demonstrate both his love for the female form and his creative sensibilities. In the 30s he showed several original styles including broad shouldered blouses and a stylish trouser suit for women at a time when the fairer sex only wore pants for the most informal or recreational occasions.
Marcel Rochas designs from 1934. Note the modern styling and sophisticated shapes.
His collections were well received in Paris and abroad and by the 40s Rochas had built up a star studded clientele including Marlene Dietrich and Carole Lombard. His trademark looks structured around a woman's curves, like the belted party dress and mermaid gown, were forerunner's to the designs of the late 40s and 50s.

A Rochas mermaid gown photographed by famed fashion photographer Irving Penn.
In '42 Rochas released his guepiere. This marvelous new style of lingerie combined the cinching capacity of a corset with the elasticity of a girdle and was finished with garters. The clever design proved to be flattering, functional and fashionable, true to Rochas' motto, "Youth, Simplicity and Personality." Several years after its release various other companies were manufacturing similar items, including Kleinert's rubber waspie and the infamous Warner's Merry Widow.

The famous Rochas guepiere. Ooh la la!
Rochas designed a custom Chantilly lace waspie corset for Mae West. It is said her ample curves inspired the shape of his Femme perfume bottle.

Rochas in his Paris workshop with a model.

Rochas with backstage at a fashion show. Look, the models are eating...gasp! How else do you sustain a curvaceous figure?
Upon his death in '55 Rochas' widow Helene took the helm of the fashion house, building a perfume empire. Today the brand produces both haute couture and high end fragrances keeping the original founder's spirit of innovation and femininity alive in their creations.