
Today we honor one of our all time favorite designers, Elsa Schiaparelli. If her contemporary and rival Coco Chanel is the queen of haute couture, then Schiaparelli is the court's knight-errant. Her bold and inventive styles were the forerunner to the the whimsy and fantasy that can be seen on the modern runways and they have left a significant mark on current fashion.

Elsa in a fabulous turban.
Schiaparelli was born in Rome in 1890 to a wealthy and influential family. Her parent's social status afforded her a proper upbringing and a comfortable lifestyle, and her uncle, renowned astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli discovered the channels of Mars. After finishing a degree in Philosophy at the University of Rome Schiaparelli left Italy for the UK to escape the stifling conservative mentalities which clashed with her own capricious whims. She was offered a nannying job in London where she met and married the lecturer William De Wendt and several years later the two moved to New York. Shortly there after De Wendt left his pregnant wife and Schiaparelli was forced to take on the responsibilities of a single mother. She took a job writing screen plays and came to know the Dada artist Francis Picabia and his wife Gaby. Through their acquaintance Schiaparelli was introduced to a variety of other designers and artists including Man Ray and Marcel Duchamp whose artistic creativity informed her own avant-garde style. When Man Ray and Gaby left for Paris, Schiaparelli packed her things and went along with them.

The sweater that started it all .
With encouragement from Paul Poiret, a well respected designer of the time, Schiaparelli began designing clothing from the attic of her home in Paris. Her first line of clothing consisted of graphic knitwear designed with eye catching patterns and became instantly popular, they even were printed in French Vogue. Not bad for a beginner with no formal training! Schiaparelli's success continued to grow, her avant-garde fashions were outrageous yet wearable, infusing a high brow sense of art with humbling humor. She dared to go beyond the expected and her fearless creations have left their mark on clothing to this day.

A dramatic Schiaparelli design.
Schiaparelli is credited with numerous innovations in design including the broad shoulder silhouette which defined the 40s, the use of zippers in haute couture and the wedge heel shoe, all of which have become standards today. Schiaparelli was also among the first designers to sell clothing off the racks from her shop in Paris, instead of taking orders for custom made couture. This remarkable step made fashion available to a wider range of customers, rather than excluding everyone but the elite.

A Schiaparelli dress makes no attempt to conceal the zipper, instead it is part of the styling.
Among her contributions to fashion is her signature color, Shocking Pink. She described the hot fuchsia color as, "life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world put together, a color of China and Peru but not of the West." The bold color and poetic explanation capture her vivacious approach to design and fashion in general.

Schiaparelli gowns with signature Shocking Pink components, 1951.
We are lucky enough to get our hands on a fabulous pair of Schiaparelli feathered mules, the perfect example of the scandalous flamboyance she made so chic. Slip them on and you transcend to a Parisian flat full of Gauloises smoke, glittering surreal art and a hot bohemian lover...I digress. Check out our vintage archives for past Schiaparelli slips and keep your eyes peeled, more is to come.
Check back next week for the second installment of the blog describing her prolific collaborations with artists such as Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau and Pablo Picasso along with the haute couture masterpieces they bore.